Every day we see the results of pet over-population. We believe that our ongoing commitment to spaying and neutering makes a significant difference in the lives of many animals. By reducing pet over-population in our community, the number of homeless animals who suffer can be reduced. All cats and dogs in our care are spayed/neutered when of age and we have a follow-up process to ensure that those pets adopted as puppies or kittens are spayed/neutered when they reach 6 months. We continue to spay and neuter approximately 300 animals each year.

Some foods and plants are poisonous to cats and/or dogs. To read more, please visit the links below. If you suspect your pet has been poisoned, please seek veterinary care immediately.

Poisons and Toxic Foods for Dogs
Foods that are toxic to Cats and Dogs
Toxic Foods and Plants for Cats

Feline Urinary Syndrome (FUS) or Lower Urinary Tract Disease (LUTD) can cause serious bladder problems - especially in males. When a cat is suffering from FUS/LUTD, a blockage of the urethra can partially or totally prevent a cat from urinating. The bladder then becomes massively distended since urine is not being eliminated. Within a short period of time, the excess bladder pressure stops the kidneys from functioning; this is the start of a disaster. Without functioning kidneys, poisonous waste substances cannot be removed from the body and a state of self intoxication exists - this is known as Uraemia. Unless the obstruction to urine formation is removed, irreparable kidney damage is the inevitable result. It is a VERY PAINFUL condition which can cause death within 24 hours.

HOW DO I KNOW IF MY CAT IS AFFECTED?

WATCH FOR THE FOLLOWING SIGNS:

• A housebroken cat that suddenly becomes "dirty" and changes its habits and urinates on the floor, in the bathtub or the sink.
• Frequent trips to the litter box, squatting and straining to pass small drops of urine. Do not mistake this for constipation; laxatives at this stage could kill the cat by causing spasms that could rupture the distended bladder.
• Traces of blood in the urine and a strong ammonia-like smell.
• Excessive "yowling" and licking of the penis.
• Listlessness, depression, vomiting or poor appetite is always a sign of a sick cat.

WHAT SHOULD I FEED MY CAT TO AVOID THIS CONDITION?
The amount of "ash" denotes the level of minerals in a pet food. A low-ash content means that the food has low levels of minerals in it. Ash content was once thought to be a critical factor in the formation of urinary bladder disease, however, we now know that it is the level of MAGNESIUM within the ash that is the most important. High levels of magnesium, along with such factors as genetic predisposition, decreased physical activity, obesity, low water consumption and stress can contribute to the formation of crystals in the bladder and cause bladder disease. The Canadian Veterinary Medical Association (CVMA) Recommendations for Cat and Dog Food:

Total magnesium level should not exceed 0.1%
Total ash level should be no more than 6%.
In Canada, TechniCal, IAMS, and Hill's Science Diet dry food (from pet and other stores), as well as Medical Feline and Hill's products (from vet clinics), are all excellent dry cat foods. These foods are well-balanced nutritionally and produce less smelly cat stools; they also contain the approved levels of magnesium.

Avoid foods that don't list nutrients, and lower costing foods since the magnesium levels are too high. ALWAYS READ THE LABELS ON FOOD!! Be sure to provide a bowl of fresh water daily.

º  The Ottawa Veterinary Hospital at 900 Boyd Ave (Broadview and Carling) is open 24 hours a day, and on weekends for emergencies. The telephone number is 613-729-6139.

º  Alta Vista Animal Hospital located at 2616 Bank Street, south of Hunt Club, is also open 24 hours a day and their phone number is 613-731-6851.

This is the top reason owned cats are placed in shelters. Help owners keep their pets by passing on these facts and tips

First Step
IS THE CAT TO BLAME?
People are quick to blame an allergy on their cat even if they haven't suffered previously. Doctors too find the cat a convenient scapegoat.

»  Is it an allergy? Colds and infections can cause similar symptoms to a cat allergy. The doctor should do an allergy test to confirm that the cat is to blame.
»  The cat may be completely INNOCENT!
»  Does the allergy go away when you are in a cat-free area?
»  Is the allergy seasonal? Could it be caused by environmental factors such as a certain type of pollen? Does it only occur during the cat's seasonal molts?
»  If the cat is boarded for two weeks, are symptoms reduced? This is only a rough guide since it can take two or three months to get rid of residual allergens in the house e.g. dust in carpets and furnishings.

Second Step
CAN THE ALLERGIC REACTION BE REDUCED WITHOUT REHOMING THE CAT?
Basic cat allergens facts:
»  They need to be airborne.
»  you need to breathe them in for you to have an allergic reaction to them.
»  Cat allergen is very small so it remains suspended in the air longer.
»  There is also a high rate of recontamination (because the cats are running around the house).
»  Many owners tolerate mild allergies.
»  Those whose symptoms worsen during molting seasons often find symptom relief with antihistamine tablets or nasal sprays.

What to do
»  Inquire about desensitizing or allergy medication - generally shots or pills. Not all GPs offer this treatment.
»  Restrict the cat's access to certain rooms. Some rooms should be kept cat-free. Don't let the cat sleep in your bedroom as it will leave behind dust-coated fur.
»  Wash all bedding in hot water. Cat must be banned from bedrooms! »  Use a spray such as 'AllerPet' which can be applied to the cat's fur to neutralize or reduce allergens on its fur.
»  Wash your hands immediately after petting your cat and do not rub your eyes. »  Rubbing your eyes can result in itchy eyes for hours. Use a strong anti-bacterial soap to avoid this problem.
»  Clean your cat. It will have to be an indoor only cat. Bathe it in distilled water each month to wash away dried saliva dust. Tap water leaves residues on the cat's fur. If washing the cat is too stressful for all involved, get a micro fiber cloth and just damp rub down the cats' coats to rid it of visible dander. The majority of cats would prefer this to the highly dreaded bath. But be sure to use the 'Allerpet'!
»  Invest in a good air filter unit. These are not cheap, but they extract the minute dandruff particles which pass through most vacuum cleaners.
»  Vacuum up cat allergen with a high grade HEPA vacuum cleaner twice weekly. »  Vacuum walls, carpet, flooring, chairs, and furniture...everywhere. Use the hand tools on the vacuum. Cat allergen particles are very small and invasive so you really have to do a thorough job. Good hand tools on your vacuum cleaner are the answer here. Also, installing a central vacuum will help pick up the rest.
»  When choosing flooring - hardwood & tiling are preferable to carpet
»  Use a vapor steam cleaner to clean your home. In addition to vacuuming, vapor steam cleaners are now proven by research to be extremely helpful in killing off the cat proteins/dander, which are embedded in your carpets and upholstery. Steam cleaners provide a chemical-free way of cleaning and killing dust mites, bacteria, mold spores and cat allergen.
»  Wear a pollen filter mask whenever you groom the cat or indulge in long cuddles with it. Grooming is best done in a well-ventilated area so that the dust dissipates.

This is the number one reason owned cats are dropped off at shelters. All the more unfortunate as it is a correctable problem. Owners unfortunately tend to wait until they are at the end of their patience before looking for help.

It is important to try and work through this problem with the cat and allow it to remain with the family.

Important: do not assume this is a behavioral problem! The cat should always be taken to the Vet and checked out to rule out possible medical conditions, some of which may include;

• Urinary tract disease/infection
• Diarrhea
• Diabetes
• and other medical conditions can cause litter box avoidance in a previously well-trained cat

All of these conditions can be life threatening if
not treated promptly

Symptoms indicating a medical problem with a cat include

• Inappropriate urination
• Frequent trips to the litter box. S
• igns of straining while using the litter box. This can often be mistaken for constipation. Unfortunately the use of laxatives can make matters considerably worse.
• Traces of blood in the urine and a strong ammonia-like smell
• Excessive yowling and licking of the genitals
• Listlessness, depression, vomiting or poor appetite are ALWAYS signs of a sick cat
• Changes in appetite - increase or decrease
• Increased thirst
• Weight loss
• Poor coat condition

It is very easy it is to miss a number of these symptoms as cats tend to withdraw when they feeling poorly.

While the cat is at the Vet it should have the blood work required in the event that behavioural drugs are required.

Any number of things may have precipitated the behavior.

A. Litter Box Changes, such as:

• the location
• the style
• the brand of kitty litter (even a brand you use regularly could have changed and added a scent)

B. The Environment

• adding a new family member or pet
• death, divorce, other stress or changes in household
• changes in the work schedule
• changes in the amount of attention the cat has been receiving
• the litter box may have, due to changes in the household become an 'inappropriate' place. It should always be in a peaceful, quiet setting, away from noise, food, people and other animals. For example the litter box was always in the laundry room and there was never a problem. Now the boys are hockey age and large, scary bags of hockey equipment are tossed into 'his' room on a regular basis. Or the litter box area has become increasingly cramped or noisy.
• using the litter box to 'trap' the cat. Owners must be warned that the litter box and time spent in it are for 'elimination' only. It should never be associated with an unpleasant experience - going unwillingly into the carrier, a vet visit etc.
• scolding or punishing the cat while s/he is near or in the litter box

Behavioural drugs, when used in conjunction with litter box retraining, are 100% successful as long as directions are followed to the letter. This therapy is only unsuccessful when the owner has 'weakened' and brought the cat out of its room before the retraining was over.

There are a number of drugs available to help the cat. Most commonly used are Clomicalm, Paxil, Busbar & Elevil. Owners may need to play with the dosage (titrate the dosage) as per the Vet's instructions to get the results required. We are suggesting the use of behavioural drugs right away, as we are probably not hearing about the problem until it is out of control. Obviously it's the Vet's call. Make sure the Vet is an expert in this field. Call or email FOAP for a recommendation of a behavioural specialist.

Litter Box Retraining:

• The cat MUST be placed in a small secure room such as a bathroom or laundry room.
• Keep his food and water as separate as possible from his litter box. The cat MUST be confined to this space for 3-4 weeks. DO NOT RUSH THIS STAGE. The cat is becoming accustomed to the medication and he is retraining with his litter box. Cats are naturally tidy animals and they will not be happy to have their food area 'dirtied up'.
• Clean litter box EVERY DAY. They will also use the litter box more willingly if it is cleaned everyday. Some cats will not use a box if it contains any waste at all - a second box will solve this problem.
• Also try changing the type of kitty litter. When feeling stressed or threatened cats are less receptive to scented kitty litter. They may not like the 'feel' of clumping cat litter. Try different textures and styles, or offer a "buffet" of litter choices. After a few days start to remove the types of litter that are not being used. You may find that your cat prefers to use more than one style of litter (for example, newspaper pellets and crystals or wheat and regular clumping litter). Change up the configuration of the litter boxes - try one hooded and one open tray - and make them large and easy to get out of. It gives them peace of mind. Remember cats don't like changes, they like choices. Make any changes in the new box first.
• Changing their previous litter box environment can be particularly helpful to those who associate a bad experience with the old one.

NOTE: This confinement is NOT intended as punishment for the cat and should not be treated as such. The cat will still require as much positive attention and affection as possible. All of this MUST take place within the small room. This stage is harder on the owners then it is on the pets. Keep in mind - anytime the cat escapes or is allowed to leave the room you've just undone all the positive work that preceded it. Before the cat comes out make sure you have thoroughly cleaned any 'visited' areas with an enzymatic cleaner (see your local vet or pet supply store for such a cleaner). If a carpeted area is involved the carpet may have to be lifted and the underpad treated with the enzymatic cleaner. Then follow the tips on the next page diligently.

Litter Box Avoidance Summary

A cat commonly urinating near the box indicates the rejection of the litter or box. Urinating elsewhere is probably a preference for the location or substrate.

• Keep the box(es) in a quiet setting away from noise, food, animals and people
• Place second litter right over area where cat has been urinating inappropriately
• Clean litter box daily and wash litter box with dish soap & hot water once a week
• Utilize more than one litter box and in more than one place in a multilevel home
• Try different kitty litter - unscented, non-clumping, different textures - fine vs. coarse grain even shredded newspaper BUT DON'T MAKE CHANGES PROVIIDE CHOICES - all of this should be done in an adjacent litter box and then monitor the cat's reaction.
• Try different litter box configurations - one hooded, one standard tray
• Cat should never feel 'cornered' in litter box - keep small children and dogs away from litter box area.
• Provide one litter box for every cat in the household
• Never scold or punish the cat near his litter box
• Never punish the cat for inappropriate soiling. It's ineffective and only makes them more anxious.
• Suspend plants, cover the soil with foil, and encase the pots in secured bags until the cat is successfully using the litter box again.
• Longhaired cats should be groomed professionally - trimming the hair beneath the tail, around the anus and genitals and at the back of the thighs. This will aid in grooming and prevent 'rubbing' or scooting to remove adhered feces.
• NEVER USE THE LITTER BOX TO TRAP THE CAT!!!!